I think I’m under the weather. A sudden bout of melancholy and unspecified malaise has wrapped itself around my leg and I can’t seem to shake it off. It is paralysing me, preventing me from playing my part in the world.
This is a strange place for a Brazilian person to set up home; the banana tree doesn’t take hold in this kind of climate. I have taken disguise amongst the indigenous population of this island, cloaking myself with the recognisable characteristics of a local, translating my ‘Brazilianness’ into someone identifiably British.
This may have caused me to lose my identity but keeping my Brazilian outlook was never an option; remaining a permanent figure of fun, an exotic oddity, a madman who could never be taken seriously. There is no cultural cross-reference. Apart from Guyana, South America is largely untouched by the globetrotting and colonising hand of Britannia. As a consequence, Brazil is an alien culture for your average British person. We don’t play cricket, and to understand the difference between a googly and a no-ball, now that really is to have something in common.
This is a land that doesn’t readily embrace foreigners or diversity, despite tolerating it. This attitude is carried in the genes, from word of mouth, in the air, in the exchanged looks. And it is easy to understand why; its history is littered with illustrations of how foreigners mean trouble: invasions, wars, changes in the law, religion and land ownership. It is an island, after all.
Despite my olive skin, they pick me out as one of their own, in Britain or abroad. I even sound like they do and I behave following the same unspoken code of rules. People automatically assume I am British. Yet I never felt like I belong, that I have ever fitted in. I am permanently suspended, hovering detachedly, like a ghost, a mere observer. Lack of daily contact with other Brazilians has made me lose that jiggle in the hips, the instant quip.
But I never fitted in in Brazil either. Fellow Brazilians are puzzled, where is my patriotism, my pride in the flag? Sorry, I don’t feel it, never did. The line in the national anthem that declares I would gladly die for my country, should the need arise, always felt like a bone stuck sideways in my throat. But treachery isn’t acceptable, even from a seven-year old child. In a recent conversation with an ex-girlfriend from my teenage years, she said passionately ‘I am proud to be Brazilian. I love my country’, but it’s fallen on deaf ears, this chest beating. Proud of what? It is hard to feel pride in a nation whose idea of social justice is for 5% of the population to hold 95% of the wealth; a nation that murders its children lest they develop into violent criminals, and where political corruption rules supreme. How could anyone take it seriously?
The other unpalatable side of Brazilian culture is its unmitigated and overt racism towards black people, the people who built the country. Up to the point when I left Brazil, there were no black politicians, no black newsreaders or indeed any other relevant role models. On television, black people only ever appeared on soaps as servants, and what do you expect from the country that abolished slavery later than any other? They are keen to dissociate themselves from their African roots, preferring instead to cite their European ones. But have a look at all the cultural elements which give us our identity and they are mostly based on African culture: national dish (feijoada, food derived from the slaves), music and dance (samba), martial arts (capoeira), carnival. She can keep her patriotism.
Britain is my home. It accepts me for who I am. It doesn’t always agree with me, but it allows me to say what I want and to be who I am, even if I still don’t know it myself. It is not perfect but then show me a country that is. No, I’ll carry on hovering above the ground, ghost-like, with my green passport, a citizen of the world, if you will.
And being a madman not taken seriously can be a good thing.
Said the madwoman.
Hullo miss tickle, what an honour to have a fellow madperson in my comments!
but even so, although I know you’re not mad, I’ll pretend you are for the sake of argument. your ‘madness’ is still an endearing one, the british kind, the two pencils up your nostrils and underpants on your head type. we recognise it and empathise with it.
the madness of the foreigner, the ‘manuel’ syndrome is much trickier, however.
but you may be right, perhaps that’s where I’ve gone wrong – no one likes a fraud.
Belonging’s overrated. You’ll see things they’ll never see, as some Mancunian twat once said.
Hey Mike, welcome!
Not THE Mike, surely?
you’re probably right about it being overrated, but NOT belonging can be a lonely business…
Ah, this is something I can relate all to well to. Not just the slight dissociation with England, but also the fact that you never felt you quite belonged in Brazil either. I’ve always maintained that just because I was born in Sweden doesn’t mean I’m Swedish.
But ultimately I feel quite root-less; I’ve lived in several countries, but never really felt at home anywhere. And as I get older it just gets more complex; on the one hand I feel more and more at ease with myself and so I think it doesn’t matter where I live, But on the other hand I’m starting to long for Sweden… Maybe one day I’ll move back there, live in some remote cottage somewhere…
Yes, you did get me thinking here…
It’d be dead boring without you lot from places far away. Cheer up!
waspgoddess: don’t leave us on account of my post! lol
mr x: thanks, it’s very kind of you to say so!
I was born in Britain, I have always lived in Britain, I have never felt as if I fitted in. I identify completely with the first four sentences of your last paragraph. Interesting post. (We have a banana tree in a big pot. It lives in the garden in summer and the kitchen in winter. It doesn’t produce any bananas, though.)
I think for me the single most appealing British characteristic which makes me love this country above my own is this ability for self-criticism, to question its values and attitudes, to play devil’s advocate, and despite being generally suspicious of foreigners, the manner in which its people will stand up for their rights (genocidal neo-nazis excepted).
Yes, like your banana tree my roots may have taken hold, albeit inside a pot, carefully avoiding the London clay and shuffling between kitchen and garden. And like your tree, I have failed as yet to bear fruit.
(Incidentally, I like the banana tree as a metaphor for a Brazilian person, even though bananas do grow in lots of other places. There is a Brazilian song by a great musician, a poet and observer of our culture, in which he sings ‘My fate is green-and-yellow like the banana tree’ [green and yellow being the two outstanding colours of the flag].)
how beautifully observed and
expressed -
i think you do however, need to
re-discover your jiggle in the hips – perhaps take a dancing lesson – why not?
life is short and dancing is good for the heart…
i also know the feeling of hovering like a ghost -
but I have found my hearts home at last -
and I feel at peace…”)
hiya sophie! As a rule I avoid dancing, because every time I risk it someone ends up phoning the emergency services.
Nice to be at peace!
Oi… Let me try again…
Delicia esse seu post! I can relate in so many levels… It’s comforting to know I’m not the only Brazilian that is not compulsively attached tothe Mother Land. I feel duality more than anything… Sometimes I wish I could blend the Tupiniquim Alessandra with the Gringa Alex for maximum fullfilment and peace of mind. Hmmm… That would be nice…
Feel better… And thanks for the visit. I appreciate it immensily, since I’ve been fighting a fever for the last 2 days… I love your writing, Marcos!
Oi querida, bem-vinda de volta!
When you say ‘blending the Tunipiquim Alessandra with the Gringa Alex’, for some reason I can’t avoid the mental image of Sting and the Chief of the Yanomamis standing side by side… (see, you have a fever but I’m the one with the feverish mind.)
Espero que esteja se sentindo melhor! Valeu. Um beijo.
Edvard … I’m very glad to have found your blog. I relate entirely to the feeling of not fitting that you describe. And I’m almost obscenely relieved to see it described by someone literate and thoughtful. IT’s strange how absence from your home country allows you to more sharply focus the faults of your simultaneously much missed mother country, isn’t it? I see now I’m in South America, how cold, how hypocritical, how permanently angry my countrymen are, and recoil from it. Yet I will never be peruvian, either. I wasn’t born into this dislocated space, so I can’t claim kinship with the TCK / third culture kids who are taking the world by storm. I just spend out my days in the gaps and the silences between two cultures, hoping this is possible, long term.
I shall be a regular reader here from now on. Best wishes to you and I hope the north is not too cold.
This post echoes my feelings too. As a permanently displaced person, I am not quite sure where I belong, if anywhere at all. All the same, this little floating rock feels like home, much like this language is my voice more than any other.
Ariel: and what a lovely voice it is! I think your blog is real gem.
Your most beautifully written post. Really. How do I nominate you for that post of the week thing?
Thank you, Maryam!
I didn’t think it was that good but if you say it is, then I’ll trust your judgement.
I doubt it would stand a chance against all the great writing that features there regularly, but if you wanna nominate it, you have click on the Post of the Week link and post the link to this post on the comments section. I think you can’t nominate any new posts till Sunday evening though, when they’ll have chosen the winner for this week.
Gosh, I’m amazed by the response to this post. It would appear there are a lot more people out there feeling displaced than I’d imagined when I wrote it.
Sarsparilla:
I think you’re 100% right, that however observant a person you may be, it’s only when you create some room in a different culture, from a comfortable distance, that you’re able to really appreciate what’s going on in your own, like those ancient Nazca Lines in Peru: bewildering at ground level and only understood when gazed at from high up above.
My view is that as time goes by it is possible to feel part of your adopted country, but you’re always carrying with you the heavy load of your own culture, which is a vast dead weight really, since those around you just don’t know anything about it (apart from the inevitable stereotyped preconceptions), and show little interest in understanding it, which can be quite frustrating, but why should they really?
An apt illustration would be to imagine your reaction if, for example, you suddenly heard the Antiques Road Show theme tune in Peru. Whether you like the show or not, you probably would jump up in the air, and it would bring back all sorts of memories associated with Sunday evenings in England, but those around you would be totally bemused by your arcane taste for trumpety music, and wonder (probably not for the first time) if this English girl is the full ticket. I think that probably never changes.
Still, with all the problems that integration into a new culture so alien to your own brings, think how much more limited a person you would be without this mind-expanding experience. I often feel a sense of pity towards those people who never leave their country, and I can’t bear to imagine what I would be like if I hadn’t.
Sarsparilla, thanks for your kind words. For my money, there is no one in the blog world who speaks about this business of cultural dissonance more eloquently and passionately than you. So can I say to anyone here who hasn’t read it yet, don’t read my blog, read Sarsparilla’s instead!
I liked the line in your earlier post about blogging for flattery and female attention. Nailed!
NB I too am in love with Sarsparilla and would give away all my bloggly goods for a smile from her direction.
There used to be a theatre company in Scotland called 7:84 (perhaps there still is?), standing for 7% of the population, 84% of the wealth. Not quite as bad as 5:95, but still bad.
hello overnight editor, welcome!
how admirable that you own up to it so freely
welcome Leslie!
how odd! it surprises me to hear that a theatre company of all things would be doing that. Artists, in general, tend to speak for the many and not the few. I wonder what happened to them? Joined New Labour maybe?
Another displaced foreigner just a few miles up the road from you, says hello!
Hello Cream, welcome and Happy Birthday!
You continue to surprise me
Not only do you like Disgrace (and suggest it to other likable people) but I come here and find that I can immediately relate to the very first post!
Is it serendipity?
A
Hello Amy and welcome!
Disgrace is indeed my favourite book of all time. I’m a huge fan of J.M. Coetzee. Recently read Slow Man, which is brilliant too.
I really feel for you reading this and just wanted to send you a hug. I lived in Bulgaria for a couple years and while I was never a permanent expat the way you are, its a hard thing to sometimes feel like neither place, neither one’s birth or adopted country, feels 100 % like home, in some ways, sometimes, to be a person between two countries. I never quite feel like I fit in anywhere and sometimes I love that, and sometimes it really hurts. I noticed a week has gone by since you wrote this and perhaps you have slid into a different space with it again but I think it is amazing that you picked up at all and left home and are in the rich process of creating home where you are. I always wish I could scoot myself right out of the blues when they pop in but knowing it doesn’t work that way, I hope yours pass soon. Being a blissed out homebody myself, I remember when I was in Bulgaria cocooning always helped with a good movie or book or writing pad.
Hi Alexandra, thank you for your warm words and for the hug.
I’m fine, really, I always get up and walk again!
i miss you – time for a new post!
This belonging is such a strage thing. I was born and bred in Mozambique but of British ancestry so I didn’t really fit in with the white Portuguese there although we got on very well. Then I went to S Africa and definitely didn’t feel S African as I had grown up in Mozambique, had a British (and Portuguese) passport. If anything, I felt British. That had all to do with my ancestry, my passport and having grown up with so many British things like Enid Blyton. Incidentally, she ‘taught’ me to read Portuguese as when I’d run out of English versions to read in Mozambique, I started reading Portuguese translations of her books. When I moved to the UK for the first time (late eighties), that was when I realised that I wasn’t British at all and suddenly recognised the S African-ness in me. The best bits, let me hasten to add.
I returned to S Africa in 1990 but for most of the past 5 years I’ve spent them in the UK. I love the UK and can identify with the place both as an outsider and an insider but still consider myself as S African not British. Despite the passport!
And now I’m in Amsterdam where the Brits all think of me as British.
Howzat? Cricket had to come up somewhere!!
sophie, darling, I’m still here! I have written about 5 other posts since last week but thought them all too weak to publish…
reluctant nomad, hello and welcome! wow that’s an amazing trajectory you’ve followed so far… fascinating stuff, sent my off-stump cartwheeling off the ground.
Oh Moonke, you are sorely missed and you simply MUST publish something new… nothing you write could be too weak. You now have at least a dozen ladies at your feet, and we will all love you no matter what.
thank you, lovely, that’s so sweet!
ok, I will, but don’t say I didn’t warn you! lol
my subconscious says: ‘all he ever wanted was to have at least 12 ladies at his feet’.