Kingston-upon-Hell

The city of Hull is not for the lily-livered. Before arriving, while driving past the spectacular engineering achievement that is the Humber Bridge you may be forgiven for expecting a modern and exciting city. This notion is quickly dispelled, however, once you find its landscape littered with monstrous derelict factories. They all seem abandoned, these gigantic structures. The only evidence that some of them may still be operative is the air density, which is thick with gaseous and toasted grains smells. It is intoxicating. Literally. And may go a long way to explain the creatures well on their way to becoming the mutants that shuffle listlessly about the place.

Hull was apparently heavily bombed during World War II and rebuilt with the hideous concrete boxes that the 1960s architects were so fond of. It’s really not possible to over-emphasise how ghastly the place is. Some parts of Hull would easily reduce your average tough Baghdad ‘insurgent’ to a convincing impersonation of the Cowardly Lion. In these dodgier areas, even the pets carry commando knives (always a sign of a bad neighbourhood), and I don’t need to tell you the consequences of straying into one of these areas by accident…

Your bosom will then be swelling with pride and admiration to hear that the other night you would have found your intrepid and all-round hard motherfluffer of a blog-keeper perched perilously on a roundabout in said city setting up his cameras in order to earn a crust. 

In such a vulnerable position (my boss refused to cave in to my request for a stab-vest), you can imagine I am a little wary of my surroundings. I am setting my cameras up late, it’s past midnight, and here I am, a lonely figure parked on a large roundabout. For company, I have Radiohead’s OK Computer blasting out of the speakers.

A six-wheel juggernaut pulls up on the approach to the roundabout. I turn and watch the driver hop out. ‘Airbag’ has just ended and now ‘Paranoid Android’ is in full flow. He strides purposefully towards me. Did I cut him up earlier, I wonder? He has something in his hands – possibly a weapon of some kind? There is something familiar about his look and gait, something Napoleonic in that low-centre-of-gravity kind of way. I glance past him at the lorry and read the writing on its side. It’s a Portuguese lorry. Once within earshot, he starts talking excitedly in Portuguese while waving his piece of paper and pointing to an address on it. They sent him thousands of miles to deliver goods to another country without even bothering to equip him with a map. When I calmly reply in Portuguese, with the intro to ‘Subterranean Homesick Alien’ for accompaniment, he frowns and shakes his head almost imperceptibly and takes a step back, with the startled look of someone who has just witnessed his wife remove her mask to reveal she is in fact a grotesque alien from outer space. He turns and looks at the buildings on the edge of the dual carriageway, as though to ascertain that he has indeed travelled to the right country. Days on the road can play tricks with the mind. I can see him thinking ‘yeah, come to think of it, this place doesn’t look like England at all’. Once he realises that my speaking Portuguese is no more than a coincidence, he lets out a little relieved laugh, presumably thinking what a great piece of luck this is. But that’s where his luck ends: I have no idea where his intended destination is.

‘I don’t live here, you see. Only here for the day’, I explain.

‘Oh, can’t you phone one of your friends and ask if they know it?’, he asks.

Now, I don’t know about the company you keep, but I think if I went around phoning friends after midnight on a weekday to ask if they know the address to an obscure industrial estate in a city hundreds of miles from where they live, it is fair to assume it wouldn’t be long before I found myself devoid of the few friends I still have.

‘They’re not likely to know either’, I say, with the chorus to ‘Let Down’ in the background, and feel quite sorry for him as I watch him walk dejectedly away. Who knows if he’ll ever be seen again? I picture his bloated body being winched out of the Humber, and me arrested and charged with his murder on account of being the last person to see him alive.

I turn away and carry on working. ‘Sing us a song, a song to keep us warm… Today, such a chill, such a chill’

26 Responses

  1. Great post.
    Funnily enough, this piece did not make me homesick for the old country!
    What were you taking pics of? Traffic at night?

  2. hi herhimnbryn, thank you. The cameras are video cameras, to record the traffic in the morning.

  3. As Marigoldie once said, “I live for this kind of stuff.” Bravo. I’ve been waiting for a new entry and it was worth the wait.
    PS – They make you risk life and limb to record traffic flow? The monsters!

  4. gosh lj, thanks, you are so kind to me. they don’t force me to do it, and in a strangely masochistic kind of way, I enjoy certain aspects of it.

  5. You made it out alive? Well done!
    Rather you than us…

  6. fantastic writing as ever, edvard. enidd can think of some other towns that should have been more heavily bombed in the war, and, more importantly, not reconstructed in the sixties. slough, for one. did you manage to film the look on the driver’s face when he heard you speaking portugese?

  7. mr. x: I did, but only just. :-D

    enidd: thanks darling. yes, those 1960s’ concrete boxes, or rather, their architects, have a lot to answer for.

  8. From the description in the first paragraph it could have been Naples! Abandoned run down factories and all that. WHy won’t they knock the lot down and build something decent…like a nice green park.

  9. nicki, I know what you mean about naples, although I found it had a strange charm to it – plus it’s hard to criticise a city with vesuvius as a backdrop. For someone living in positano, naples must indeed look ugly but it’s the hanging gardens of babylon compared to Hull.

  10. Why exactly were you taking pictures of a roundabout in Hull?
    At midnight?

    Concerning.

  11. I think I have met your Portuguese lorry driver! Honest!
    Four or five years ago, 9pm, my restaurant is bouncing, I get this phone call from our local brewery.
    “Could you please help this lost foreign driver. He wants to go to Newcastle…”
    He comes on the phone and I realise he is Portuguese.
    I use what little Spanish I know and then revert to French which he understands, to explain to him that the brewery he is lookjing for is about 30 miles further North.
    “Obrigado!” he thanks me.
    A few days later, I ask the brewery why they got in touch with MOI.
    “You are the only foreigner we know!”
    Then the guy goes on to say that, while the lost Portuguese driver was on the phone to me, his cab was broken into and most of his personal effects were pinched!

    How do you say “pig-sick” in Portuguese, Marcos?

  12. timbo: I’ve seen the creased spine of G. Orwell’s 1984 on your bookshelf and I understand your concern, young man. ;-)

    cream: what a great story. yeah it does sound like him, doesn’t it. how on earth did he manage to end up in hartlepool when he intended to go to newcastle? you’d think he’d got around to getting himself a road map by now… oh and is there anything they won’t nick up there?

  13. Hilarious. You don’t mince your words do you?!!!!

  14. ooo, edvard you nice man, thank you for recommending enidd for post of the week! enidd’s ever so chuffed; she’s grinning so hard she makes a cheshire cat look moody.

  15. I love your description of the lorry driver’s shock on realising you spoke Portuguese.

  16. sally: hello and welcome. really? I had myself down as a mincer… but only of words, of course.

    enidd: it’s a pleasure. edvard thinks that if he is going to have to hear every tiny little bit of nonsense that falls out of Cameron’s mouth in the media’s campaign to elect him, we may as well balance things out a bit and listen to common sense from someone who actually means it. Enidd for Westminster, Edvard says.

    Zinnia: hello darling. thank you. yes, his face was certainly a picture. :-D

  17. I used to live in Hull. Your piece brought back wonderful memories.I think the city is best appreciated during the day when the traffic fumes mix with industries belchings and you can almost see the green tinge in the air. I left when I fell pregnant lest I gave birth to a green sproglet.

  18. When I read it, I could hear the X Files music in my head for some reason! [OK, I am not well versed in the sci fi genre, I'll admit it]. The Portuguese lorry driver’s face must have been a picture. Glad to hear you are alive and blogging, although I am somewhat puzzled about your traffic cameras. Are you some sort of superspeedcameracop flashing away at the unsuspecting around Britain? Hmm, maybe I should rephrase that!

  19. Not bombed enough?! Oh ouch.

    How are you?

  20. goldfish: hello and welcome. you were very wise to leave. oh the smell of rotting flesh…

    ariel: lol really, what do you take me for? superspeedcameracop? it’s all far more sinister than that… ;-)

    maryam: I didn’t mean it like that, really. looking at it now, it does seem rather harsh. oh and I’m much better now that you visited me. :-)

  21. i have a stab vest – we could work together and
    i adore Radiohead – so it’s a perfect match all the way…

    eat donuts – have fun with the gadgets…..

  22. To think I actually thought about moving to Hull a few years ago… glad I’m stayed in Brighton.

    Great story and love your writing – as always.

  23. sophie: if you’re ever passing, give me a shout and I’ll take you on an adventure, somewhere really picturesque and with friendly locals, like, say, moss side in manchester. ;-)

    waspgoddess: hello darling, nice to have you back. as seaside towns go, you probably won’t find anything nicer than brighton.

  24. Darling boy, I don’t mean to boss you around but you simply must post more than once a week. Really, it is very annoying for your fans. I hope you will consider this request all the way from Marrakech….

  25. well, I don’t know about ‘fans’, but given that I am madly in love with you, maryam, being bossed around by you is a far greater pleasure for me than you would imagine. I shall take heed of your request. ;-)

  26. bwhahahaha – how did I miss this? I was actually in H(e)ull over that week-end. Sadly my in-laws live just the other side in a village called Thorngumbald.

    The place is rough as a crickets hamstring, but it gives a good night out on the town (especially as the smells tend to die down at night).

    A

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